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September 21st-23rd, 2001Here we go again! Mount Hayden is an immensely photogenic peak that sits down off the North Rim of the Grand Canyon below Point Imperial. Nearly every book that I’ve ever seen on the Grand Canyon contains a shot of Hayden and it’s striking profile with the backdrop of the Canyon. This is a peak that calls out to be climbed. A bit more than a year after our unsuccessful Mount Hayden attempt in 2000, we were going for another shot. We’d actually planned to head up to the Canyon last weekend, but incoming weather made us decide to delay for a week instead. From Point Imperial, it looks fairly easy to get to, but anyone with a bit of Canyon experience knows that any time you drop off the rim and head down into the canyon exacts a pretty hefty toll in terms of physical effort. |
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Friday, September 21st |
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Tim and Scott out front before we took off from Phoenix |
Scott sporting his new hat, picked up in Flag on the drive up. |
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We pulled into Flagstaff about 12:30 and swung into Bun Huggers for lunch. Scott needed a hat, so after chowing on burgers, we went next door to Popular (outdoor shop) and he picked up a nice polyester camouflage-pattern knit cap. It was very stylish. We stopped for gas on the way out of town. The convenience mart actually had an energy drink in the cooler, next to the better known Red Bull, that sported the name “Whoop Ass.” So for a buck-fifty, you could actually pick up and open up a can of Whoop Ass. I nearly bought a can just because it was funny. I fought off the urge, though. We rolled north past the usual tiny towns and Indian settlements in the middle of nowhere, crossed the Colorado River at Lee’s Ferry, and then climbed up onto the North Rim, arriving at Jacob's Lake about 5:30pm. We talked about getting something to eat before heading to the campsite, but just picked up ice cream instead and headed north to our usual camping area. We found our “usual” site empty and got organized (which basically means we found the beer after throwing down a tarp and a sleeping bag). We sat around shooting the sh*t and having a few beers for the next few hours, finally calling it quits about 10pm and heading off to bed. Tim sacked out in his truck while Scott and I had to sleep on the ground. I had a helluva time getting comfortable and spent about half the night thrashing around before I picked up on the idea of putting my big bag under my pillow. This brought the pillow up to a way better level and I finally got to sleep. |
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Saturday, September 22nd |
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In the last year, the loose burned out slope had changed a little. The ashen soil was a little bit more compacted and some of the foliage had started growing back. The harder surface made it harder to get a good step in the slope, but that paled against the fact that the returning plant life consisted of these knee-high willowy plants that sported bristling thorns up to about ¾” in length. We avoided these as best we could, but every now and then you just had to plunge through a few of them which would usually send a few of the needles into your lower legs. Oh joy and rapture. We took the same path as last time, heading down into the (sort of) center gully-right and downclimbed out the bottom as loose dirt rained down all over. That put us on the slope below the Coconino rock layer. We plunged through thick brush (more needles) at the bottom and then started tracking through the trees to the south towards Hayden. We were soon clear of the trees and crossing the red rock slopes leading up to the base of the formation. Last time, we stashed our packs by some trees in the red hills, but this time we lugged them up to the base of the route. The hump up the hill to gain the east side of Hayden is a real pain in the buns (couple hundred vertical feet worth anyways). We crossed below the east face to the base of the route, which we knew for sure after identifying it last year on our way back out after climbing part way up on the wrong line. We threw down our packs. Approach time was an hour and 30 minutes; 1100 feet of ascent; 290 feet of descent. One thing I wanted to do this trip was to see which direction the route actually faces. Traditionally, the easiest path to the summit is known as the “south face”, but I usually have a fairly good sense of direction and could swear the route we were on last year was pretty damn south. So, that would make this route more to the east. To settle the question, I had a compass (on my watch) with me. As it turns out, I was pretty close. The route faces 130 degrees on the compass dial, which is just east of direct southeast. Thank God we settled that question!! :-) |
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<< Tim negotiating the steep slopes down a drainage on the approach. |
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Tim on the mounds leading over to the base of Mount Hayden |
The north-northeast aspect of Mount Hayden from the approach. |
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Scott on the approach with Mount Hayden looming closer. |
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| Base of the route, I was feeling a little trashed. Too little sleep, too much altitude maybe. We changed out and suited up for the climb. The sun was beating down pretty good on that side of the rock and promised to be a bit warm above. I thought about losing the long black pants I was wearing in favor of some shorts, but decided against it in case there were some wide cracks above. In retrospect, I should have lost the long pants. I pulled a long sling out of my pack and said we should probably take it in case we needed replace any rap slings. Scott volunteered to carry it and I chucked the sling to him (more on this later). Tim flaked out the first rope and I slipped into my double gear sling. I’d beefed up the rack this trip so that if we got a surprise like last time, I wouldn’t be in situations where I was way runout from some crappy sandy placement and running out of gear fast. I figured I had way more than I needed if this was indeed the 5.7 route, but as I always say, if you don’t have a piece but need it, that’s a whole bunch worse than carrying it to the top and not needing it. I tied in and started up the route at 9:50am. | |||